Jan. 19, 2011
The day began with another nice long run around Rosettenville. I don’t think very many women run outdoors, or else we look very strange when we run, because everyone tends to stare at us. The days have been so packed. We have speakers and museum tours, and by the end of the day we are all so exhausted.
Today, we started the day by visiting with the General Secretary for the African Council of Churches. He was very interesting to talk to because he was very careful in catering his discussions to all faiths or belief systems and not making it solely about Christianity. The Church, however, is very important in the liberation struggle of South Africa. It was the only place blacks were allowed to gather, because all other organizations were banned. So it not only acted as a place of worship, but also a place for organizing and seeking sanctuary.
Today the church’s role is no longer for political sanctuary and meetings, but they do act as messengers and role models for many black communities. That’s why they are currently trying to engage in programs, which economically strengthen the black communities in South Africa, teach about HIV/AIDs and act as a form of therapy for those still struggling with the remnants of the Apartheid.
This brings us to the next group we met with, the Khulumani Support Group. The Khulumani Support Group is a support group for victims of apartheid regime. Many people didn’t not get closure, or a chance to participate in the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, only 22,000 people participate, Khulumani currently has over 60,000 members. The programs involve community reconstruction, the telling of stories about what happened to each other, and the celebrating the memories of those who were lost in the struggle. I bought a book of stories to bring back as well as a t-shirt. Trauma is a huge issue in South Africa, and for many people Apartheid trauma is still a very real and prominent part of their lives which disables them from restarting their lives and moving forward. One of the men who was speaking on behalf of the support group was from the Democratic Republic of Congo, and he expressed very powerfully, who trauma is prohibiting the South African people from truly governing themselves. They can’t move forward, so whites still control most of the economy, and while the physical apartheid regime no longer exists, the economic aspect remains.
After lunch, we went to the Apartheid Museum. It was amazing. I could easily have spent four hours there. The museum takes you through when the first whites came to South Africa, and the progression into colonization and apartheid onward. There has always been conflict between the Afrikaaners (Boers) and the Black South Africans, because they competed for the space that was left in South Africa, that the British hadn’t taken over. The British and the Afirkaaners fought many battles and the British continued to win, but in the early 1900’s they made peace with each other and cut out the Black population, from then the Apartheid began to grow, and the division and degradation of blacks only grew with it. The museum was heartbreaking and completely overwhelming. I thought I had a fair amount of knowledge about South Africa and what I am learning is that I had almost no knowledge, I have spent the past couple of days feeling completely overwhelmed.
At night we went the Market Theater and saw the Songs of Migration, with a very famous singer, who was also a famous liberation fighter. They picked songs from the slave trade in the US, Jewish songs from the Holocaust, religious songs and African songs of migration. It was really great to see and so much fun.
Jan. 20, 2011
On Thursday in the morning we met with the ANC (African National Congress), the ruling party in South African parliament. We were very interested in their approach to the many issues facing South Africa, but they seemed unable to give us clear answers on many issues, which they said was because they were unprepared for the meeting, due to short notice. One thing they did mention which I found interesting was that many of the people struggling with education and unemployment is the apartheid generation, because they received the “Bantu Education” which was not very strong and didn’t set them up to succeed.
After meeting with the ANC, we met with their opposing party in Parliament, the Democratic Alliance, they were much more forthcoming with their opinions on different issues facing the South African people, but I feel that has to be taken with caution as well. They explained that the main problems facing South Africa were unemployment (which is around 40% if you include the people who have stopped looking for work), crime, HIV/AIDS, corruption, and a lack of resources such as housing, water, and electricity. What I have gathered from both presentations is that a lot of the ANC’s power comes from the emotional link many people have with it, as the liberation party, but a lot of the DA’s support comes from younger generations as well as Indian, Colored and White voters. Everyone was pretty exhausted tonight; I think all of the running around has finally hit us.
Jan. 21-24, 2011
This morning we met with the Treatment Action Campaign. They are working in the fight against HIV/AIDS and have many programs in and around the Johannesburg area. These programs include raising awareness in young people, working to prevent mother to child infection and help people get access to the ARVS they need to combat the disease. The man who came to talk to us was named Lucky Boy; he was hilarious and so passionate. He expressed that one of the huge problems with getting treatment was the stigma with having HIV. This discouraged a ton of people from seeking treatment for fear that someone would find out that they have the disease, and either their family or community would disown them.
After the treatment action campaign we went to Constitution hill. Constitution Hill is the site of South Africa’s constitutional court is held, as well as a famous prison where during apartheid many political prisoners including Gandhi and Mandela were held. The prison was terrifying, we saw the isolation cells as well as the regular cells and they had an exhibit on the torture techniques used on prisoners. The living conditions for blacks and other non-whites were appalling, they had to eat right next to wear their sewage flowed and they weren’t fed properly, while white prisoners were fed far more decently.
Tonight was the first night of our Soweto home stay. Katelyn and I stayed with Nontyatyambo (No-cha-chambo) but we called her “Mama”. She has four children, three sons (Sipho, Madzenga, and Luyola) and a daughter, Yoliswa. Sipho and Madzenga are in their 30’s and Luyola and Yoliswa are closer in age to Katelyn and me. The first night, we watched South African soapies (Generations and another one) and watched a movie with Yoliswa and Sipho and Mama.
One thing I really learned from this home stay and also just from the experiences here, is that time is much less important. We might say dinner is at 6 and start cooking at 7 and not eat until 8, or say we were going to leave to go somewhere in a few minutes and not leave for another 2 hours. This was very difficult at first for me, because I am used to being far more scheduled. So on Saturday morning, Mama told us to sleep in so we though we would wake up at around nine. Everyone else got up and ready around 11 or so, because Saturday is their rest day, and didn’t really get to do anything until about two. The rest of the day was very fun though. Mama and Yoliswa started teaching us Zulu and one of the men working at the gas station was so impressed that we spoke it, that he started bargaining a dowry price for one of us with mama. J That night we had an amazing dinner, with chicken legs and squash and this dumpling bread. In South Africa, everything is eaten with your hands; you use the bread in the meal to scoop up all of the sauces and dishes and just eat the meat with your hands. I learned this when I was looking for a fork and could only find 1 or 2, but there were tons of spoons and knives. After Mama went to sleep on Saturday, the three Lous’ (Lou, our host brother, his cousin Lou and their friend Lou), they called themselves Lou because they didn’t think we would be able to pronounce their real names, took us to their friend’s birthday party. We left at about 11:30 pm and came home around 2am. The party was set up on a street with a huge white tent that had a DJ booth and food and a drink cart (we didn’t drink, because during home stays it is CGE policy to stay alcohol free). The party was so much fun and it was a lot like the partying that goes on in the states just more people and more dancing. Dancing is a huge part of the culture, people form huge circles and different people get in the middle and dance. The dancing isn’t like grinding or other club dancing, it’s a form of expression and movement, which is really great.
Our friends explained that a lot of Sowetan parties take place outside because all you have to do is set up the party. There aren’t any permits and no one really cares if they are outside. It was so much fun, it was probably the most fun I have had at a party in a long time. Everyone was extremely friendly and fun to be around and really welcoming.
The next day, Katelyn and I actually slept in, and after waking up we went with Sipho and Yoliswa to get meat for the Braai. A Braai is an Afrikaans word for barbecue. All over Johannesburg and Soweto mostly, there are shops called Buy and Braai. What happens is you buy the meat and then go outside to the grill and grill it there. It is a way for people to get together on the weekends and catch up. We bought the meat but brought it back to the house for the Braai later that night. After that we took a walk around Pimville (the part of Soweto we were staying in) with Sipho and his friend. He kept making fun of us for walking so fast, because we had nowhere to go, again this is another culture difference, in the US we walk fast because we are usually walking somewhere and it is very rarely we slow down just to stroll. On the walk everyone was so friendly, they would say hello, how are you and introduce themselves, then ask how we were enjoying South Africa. This is customary, in most African cultures you stop and greet people, and take the time to ask how someone is doing. I was really thrown off by this at first, because I was in a mall one day and this woman came up to me and started asking me about myself. My initial reaction is that she was then going to ask me for something (typically American, thinking someone wants something, because no one just stops to randomly ask how you are). She asked me why I was here, what I was studying, and then she said “have a great day and enjoy South Africa”, and walked away. I was in a supermarket in Windhoek and someone asked me if I was from the US and then said welcome to Namibia and walked away. People are much more welcoming and friendly, and if you don’t respond or try to ask for something without greeting its very rude.
I really enjoy the friendliness its refreshing that people stop to slow down in their days just to see how others are doing. There is something about it that instantly makes you happier. Anyways on our walk Sipho stopped at his son’s mother’s home. She lives in a tin shanty, but she invited Katelyn and me and offered us a cold drink (which means soda, I again figured this out when someone asked me if I wanted a cold drink and I said yes I would like a water and they looked at me very strangely). Sipho then went outside to talk to friends while we talked with Putu’s (Sipho’s son) mother. Putu wasn’t there he was already at Mama’s house, because Lou, Katelyn and I picked him up earlier. He was an adorable but very high-energy kid. When we went into the mall with him, he held my hand the whole time, it was pretty cute. Anyways, Putu’s mother offered us pig’s feet, which out of courtesy and curiosity we tried. I have to say it was about the grossest thing I have ever eaten, but I am glad I tried so I can now say, when it is offered to me, that I KNOW I am not a fan.
After the walk Yoliswa, Putu, Yoliswa’s boyfriend, Katelyn and I went bowling, after bowling we went home for the braai, and then said goodbye to Putu and went to bed, the next morning, we sadly had to leave. Leaving was really hard for me. I can’t explain or completely understand the feelings I developed towards the Nhodlovu family, but I really miss them and I felt like I was leaving home when I left Mama and everyone. Thankfully I have all of their information so that I can keep in touch with them, which I have every intention of doing.
After leaving, we went back to the guest house and got the rest of our stuff, and headed to Pretoria. That afternoon we had the afternoon off, so my friends Helen, Claire and I went in the pool and walked around Pretoria for a bit. I know this blog is still a couple of days behind, and I will finish most of it soon, but I wanted to partially catch you all up. Miss you tons.
Love,
Cass
Oh ya words I have learned:
My name is Thandy: Love
Katelyn's name is Nhomsa: Peace
Sawubona (Sa-wu-bwona): hello
Umjani (Oom JANi): how are you
Ingiapela (Ing-iA-Peela): Im fine
Salaghashe: Goodbye (when you are leaving)
Halaghashe: goodbye (when someone is leaving you)
Umuthli: You are beautiful
Tsa: No
Yebo (yay-bo): yes
Ika-malame(Eek- a -ma- la-may): My name is
Uyapapa (Ooh- ya-papa): you are annoying me
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